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What is Hair Thermal Reconditioning?

By Harriette Halepis
Updated: May 21, 2024

Yuko, also known as hair thermal reconditioning, is a type of hair straightening system that was originally developed by the Japanese. Unlike some other hair straightening treatments, hair thermal reconditioning permanently straightens the hair through the use of harsh chemicals. Once the hair has been straightened using the Yuko method, it is not possible for the hair to become curly once more.

The hair thermal reconditioning method was developed by Yuko Yamashita as a way to provide girls who had curly hair with straight hair. The process relies upon various chemicals that are applied to the hair. While the exact chemicals that are used during this process are patented, and therefore secret, it is known that the Yuko method relies upon a special type of water.

The water, called "Phi-ten" water, is the only type that can be used in order to complete the Yuko system. Phi-ten is a unique type of water containing small gold bits that is developed by chemists. The gold bits inside of Phi-ten help the hair to absorb the chemicals that are added during the Yuko process. This type of water can only be purchased through specialty retailers, and it is not usually sold to the general public.

Once these chemicals have had time to penetrate the hair, the hair is then separated into numerous sections and ironed straight. After each section has been ironed, it is then washed, dried, and straightened. Hair thermal reconditioning takes approximately eight hours to complete. Yuko cannot be used on any hair that has already been chemically treated, though it is highly effective on hair that has never been treated with any kind of chemical.

While the effects of hair thermal reconditioning are permanent, any new hair that grows following the procedure will not grow in a straight manner. If a person wishes to straighten all new hair, then the entire hair thermal reconditioning method must be reapplied to new hair. In many instances, the Yuko method helps not only to straighten hair, but make it shiny.

Hair specialists who wish to offer clients this type of hair thermal reconditioning treatment must be specially trained by Yuko Yamashita or by a person who has had specialized training. Various salons throughout the world offer the Yuko hair thermal reconditioning treatment. It is advised that all people wishing to undergo this type of straightening treatment ensure that a hair specialist has been properly trained prior to booking a straightening appointment.

BeautyAnswered is dedicated to providing accurate and trustworthy information. We carefully select reputable sources and employ a rigorous fact-checking process to maintain the highest standards. To learn more about our commitment to accuracy, read our editorial process.
Discussion Comments
By discographer — On Aug 24, 2011

@ddljohn-- No, thermal hair reconditioning or Japanese straightening, which is what it's usually called, will not hurt. I think that film was about a long time ago and I'm sure lots of things have changed since then.

I got mine done about four years ago, and mine did not hurt. It just takes a very long time. I remember being kind of exhausted by the time it was done.

It might damage your hair a little bit, especially if you get it done a lot. But I heard that hair stylists now have even better techniques that minimizes the damage.

So overall, it doesn't hurt your scalp and your hair minimally if done right. Considering the results, I think it's the best straightening technique out there.

By burcinc — On Aug 23, 2011

I think that thermal reconditioning is amazing. At least it is on my sister! She had it done one year ago by a very reputable salon in her area that specializes in this.

Her hair is straight all the time and she doesn't have to do anything at all, no products, blow-drying or straightening with a flat iron. And it looks very shiny and healthy.

She is so happy with it and every time I see her, I feel the urge to go to the same salon and have it done. It's expensive but considering how much time I have to spend to do my hair, I think it's totally worth it. And I won't need to have it redone for at least a year or year and a half!

By ddljohn — On Aug 22, 2011

I think there was a scene in the film (and book) "Memoirs of a Geisha" where the main character underwent this hair straightening procedure.

What I remember was that a tool was used to straighten her hair and you could see steam coming out, probably from the special "phi-ten" water.

The scene also showed that she was in a lot of pain while this was being done. Is thermal reconditioning really a painful procedure?

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